![]() Read more about managing aphid infestations in our guide. Monterey sells horticultural oil in ready-to-spray and concentrate that are available at Arbico Organics. This plant owes the “Japanese” part of its common moniker to the way it was heavily cultivated by the Japanese people for centuries. dissectum hails from China, Japan, and Korea. Cultivation and Historyīest grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 8, A. I’ve generalized these details for a reason, though – with all of the natural variations and different cultivars out there, one all-encompassing description is difficult to provide if not impossible.īut a weeping habit and finely-dissected leaves are common features that all maples of this variety share. palmatum ranging in height from 15 to 25 feet.īoth the standard species and this variety possess a spread that is typically equal to or greater than their width. dissectum has an average height of eight to 10 feet so it’s a bit shorter than a standard Japanese maple, with a typical A. ![]() The end result is lace-like foliage that sways a bit more gracefully in the wind than standard Japanese maple foliage.įor these reasons, this variety is also commonly referred to as threadleaf, cutleaf, or laceleaf Japanese maple.Ī. dissectum also has dissected leaves with seven to eleven lobes each.Įach lobe is jagged, feathery, and finely cut down to its point of attachment, or node. You don’t have to seal the cuts.Ī big drawback here is that sometimes, removing these dead parts of the tree drastically changes its appearance.Along with this weeping form, A. Once you remove the dead parts, the tree will continue growing as if nothing happened… usually.Ĭlean off any dead portions using a clean pair of pruners or a saw. I like finding clear signs of winter dieback more than discovering evidence of pests or diseases because it’s so simple to deal with. If you had a particularly strange winter with heavy snow followed by sunny, warm days and surprise heavy freezes, that makes it all the more likely. Of course, any of these symptoms could also be related to something else, like a pest infestation or disease.īut if it’s only impacting one branch and the rest of the tree looks fine, you can usually chalk it up to winter damage. If it bends rather than breaking, and it’s the same color as the surrounding branches, it’s probably still alive. Try gently bending a branch before culling it. Sometimes a branch will be alive but it won’t develop leaves in a particular year, so don’t use that as your only determining factor. Then, look for dead branches, shriveled leaves, black stems, leaf drop, black or brown leaves, or broken branches. Wait for the leaves to bud and form before you take action. It’s really hard to tell the difference between signs of dormancy and injury, and who knows which stems may actually recover and which will give up the ghost. There’s no point in looking for damage in the winter. Just because you’ve planted a type that is perfectly happy in your USDA Hardiness Zone, that doesn’t mean you won’t experience temperatures out of the norm. Just keep in mind that climates can gradually change over time and you can experience extreme weather events at any time. Surely it’s fine, right? It must be something else. You might think that dieback isn’t happening because your plant has been growing in the same location for decades. Trees in containers are more exposed to the cold, and the drying effects of the sun and wind. Young trees and those in containers are particularly at risk. Trees that leaf out earlier in the spring than other types are particularly susceptible to damage because they may start emerging from dormancy before the weather is ready to cooperate.Ī late freeze can kill all those emerging leaf buds. While we might not typically think about our trees and other perennial plants needing moisture during the cold months, if you have an unusually dry spell it can harm your trees.
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